![]() The lubricating oil for these engines is either mixed with the fuel or injected near the fuel intake of the motor. Starting fluid is not recommended for some two-stroke engines, because it has no lubricating qualities similar to unmixed gasoline. So I learned that whenever I have an issue with home electrical stuff I call up a buddy that deals with it first thing and don't touch it at all as I'll most likely just make things worse/fry something (myself included).Re: Anybody ever had an engine damaged because of starting fluid On the flip side of that for me, I hate electricity and electricity hates me lol. Then after they make it worse they'll have someone else look at it and now instead of just properly cleaning the MAF, you got to replace an expensive O2 or TPS sensor. Sorry to go on another tirade lol, and it's not directed towards you SooperDave, but I've seen a lot of cars with issues that grew from something simple and someone thought they could fix by spraying the first cleaner they could find where ever they think looks good. Fuel injected stuff you always got to juggle having a powerful enough solvent to clean a given area, but not kill any sensor's downstream of what you're cleaning. ![]() Carbureted cars/bikes are way easier in this aspect since you don't have all the electronic sensors to worry about and can just the stronger solvent right from the start. That's why they always "recommend" on the can that you remove the MAF when cleaning it as well. Depending on the vehicle, the PCV line can crud up the TB on some cars (they dump the return line before the MAF and it gets the oil mist), and definitely will in the intake, so MAF cleaner usually doesn't help much there and can actually make it worse since it just allows the deposits to pool up but not get rid of them. You can use the MAF cleaner on the TB as well without killing any sensors, but it's not that strong of a solvent for obvious reasons. Ideally on fuel injected cars you want to use MAF cleaner for the MAF, and TB/Intake cleaner for the throttle body - go figure. Spraying a little on the inside of the throttle body (on the blade, not on the outside where the TPS is) and wiping it down without the engine running isn't going to do anything, but blindly spraying a bunch of it into the throttle body while the engine is running definitely can screw up the O2 sensors.ĭespite what a couple of others here think, there's a reason why it's Carb and choke cleaner lol. Yup if you use it liberally on the intake it'll throw them out of whack as well since it's exposed element kinda like a MAF sensor, but obviously the MAF is quite a bit more sensative. I mean really we're talking maybe $1 difference here ounce for ounce - you could of probably found the difference in change in your couch in the time it took to write the OP. I remember those and dealt with them plenty when I was younger, and I'm only in my 30's.Īnd while you can use some of this stuff for other purposes if your in a fix for something small, I wouldn't purchase it with that intention. This was really important with drums since a lot of brake dust would get built up in/around the drum, especially when asbestos shoes were still common, you don't want asbestos dust floating around when you start knockin the drum loose. As surprising as it may sound, have brake dust build up to were the pads/shoes stick isn't fun and makes the new pads/shoes kinda pointless if they stick as well. ![]() When you go to change pads (or drum shoes, as it were) you spray em down with brake cleaner first. I guess you never worked on a car with drum brakes? I know drums are pretty rare to see these days, but even standard semi-metallic disc can get pretty dirty too.
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